How To Grow Long Red Florence Onion?

This is a heirloom onion. You can grow a lot of them in a small space. These onions are a spindle-shaped and it has a mild spicy taste which makes them delicious for fresh eating. Each bulb is four inches long and the bulb is narrow bulbs that can be grown in smaller spaces where the globe onions need more space.

 

Flavor

This particular onion does have some warm, spicy onion flavor, but without almost no heat. You can slice these onions up for a salad, without any fear of tearing up. They can be made into pickles.

 

Growing Notes

If you are going to plant them by direct sowing, you will need to plant the seeds in a loose, well-drained, fertile soil one to three inches apart. Now if you want to get a head start on your onions, you can start the onions,you can start on your onions, you can start the onion seeds indoors four to six weeks before the last expected  frost date where you live. When your seedlings gets two-three inches tall you will need to give them a dilute solution of kelp or seaweed emulsion and clip off a third of the leaves. Always keep your  plants indoors until you are certain that all danger of frost has passed where you live. Next, you will need to start harden your plants and you do this by putting your plants outside during the day and bring  them  inside at night for  five to seven days. If you live in a frost-free climate you can sow your seeds in the fall for a spring harvest.

When you are transplanting your delicate seedlings, you will need to be very gentle. Onions have  shallow roots and they need to have a lot of water to pump them back up. You will need to keep all the weeds out of your onions and mulch them real good to conserve water. Feed the onions once a month  while the leaves are growing on your onions.

Onions needs a very long growing season, and days to maturity is 95 - 120 days. Onion growth is affected by the amount of sunlight that they receive. This particular type of onion is considered an intermediate day length onion, which means it has to have about 12 to 14 hours  of sunlight before it will begin to form bulbs. These are the most adaptable.

How To Harvest

It is ready when most of its leaves have fallen over. You will need to gently dig and lift the bulbs and then you will need to let them cure in a cool, dry spot. Bend the rest of the leaves when they start to fall and this will speed up your harvest time and it will encourage the onions to form protective outer skins.

How To Grow Asian Greens?

Most of the Asian greens are good to use in stir-fries or for use in salads. They are sow in mid-summer through first part of fall. You can used beds, containers, and growing bags. You  should plant five plants  in each growing bag and you will need to plant fifteen to twenty plants in each nine feet rows.

Four Varieties Of Asian Greens
1. Boy Choy - this one is good in salads or you can cooked them also.

2. Red Giant - this one are red-flushed and it has a mild pepper flavor. Good used in your salads.

3. Spinach Mustard - this one is good to be cut young and the leaves used in salads.

4. Mizuna - this one will look attractive in salads or a garnish.

1. Getting StartedIt is very important that you do not sow Asian greens real early in the year because they can not  take the cold temperatures and when the days start to be longer, the plants are very prone to bolting., if you wait until midsummer, it will discourage the plants  from bolting,. During the summer, high temperatures and no rain will cause these plants to bolt. Bolting is when the plant quickly turns to seeds.

2. Sow Inside

Starting from midsummer on and at routine intervals, you will need to fill your trays with seed compost, and water thoroughly and you need to let the water drain. Sow the seeds and cover them with compost to a depth of 1/2 inch, and firm the soil with the back of a rake. The seeds does not need any extra  heat and will germinate in about a week. When they are large enough, then you will need to transplant outside.

3. Sowing Outside
The oriental greens does real well if they are sown directly. Dig the garden site up good, remove all weeds, and add high-nitrogen feed  to your soil. Rake the soil level, and then begin to mark out 1/2 inch deep drills six to twelve inches apart, depending on which crop you are growing.

4. Planting Out

First of all, prepare your soil well, and get all of weeds remove, and put high-nitrogen fertilizer. After your indoor-grown seedlings are ready to go outside, you will need to place them outside, you will need to place  them outdoors during the day and bring them indoors at night for two weeks.

5. Routine Care
They are prone to be bother with brassica pests, which are flea beetle and cabbage root fly. To keep these pests from the plants, you will need to cover them with a fine insect-proof mesh. You will need to keep the plants weed-free and water them frequently to encourage quick growth of your Asian greens.

6. Pick Young Leaves

When the leaves are large enough to eat, you can either snip  individual leaves, or you can cut back the whole plant. Since the Asian greens grow so quickly in the summer, you will need to sow seeds every two weeks which will give you many harvests throughout the summer instead of one big crop of Asian greens.

7. Harvesting
Sometime you will need to allow the plants to grow to its full size, occasionally thinning the seedlings or transplants out as the season goes. You can cut the head as a whole, or you can pick the individual shoots as they appear.

How To Grow Spinach?

Spinach  can be sow in the late spring, summer, and early fall. Spinach's time to harvest is between six to twelve weeks and spinach can be harvest all summer and fall.

Spinach can be harvested  young and used in salads or allowed to mature. for cooking. Spinach is a crop that is very easy to grow. The seeds can be sow in short drills.

1. Getting Started

Spinach will grow in cool weather and they need a shady site to grow in. They will grow in containers  and beds. In a container I will need to plant twenty to forty-five plants. It does not matter where I plant my spinach the soil has to be very rich, well-drained and it needs to be some organic matter added to the soil such as manure or compost the season before growing.

2. Sowing Outside

Spinach is sown directly into the soil in the garden, or in a containers or window boxes. Because I am planting directly into the soil, the plants are less likely to bolt on me. To get my soil ready for my spinach, and rake it level. Next step, I will need to make a drill 3/4 inches deep and eight inches apart, and water the soil real good. Put seeds directly 1/2 inch apart along your drill, then cover with soil, gently firm down, and water in well.

3. Watering

Spinach is a very thirsty fast-growing crop, so I will need to water spinach very generously and very often so my spinach will be sustain. Because I am growing spinach in very, hot dry weather, I will need to water my spinach once a day. I will need to keep the weeds out of your spinach, so the weeds will not take away the moisture from my spinach. I am using a hoe to keep the weeds out of my spinach plants.

4. Routine Care

After I have got my spinach planted, then routine care comes now. A net would need to be put over my plants to keep the birds away. Another problem can be downy mildew, bit if you have this problem there is resistant varieties available for you to use. Crops will benefit if they have high-nitrogen granular fertilizer such as pelleted poultry manure or they can give them a regular dose of a high nitrogen liquid feed.

5. Cutting Salad Leaves

Spinach can be harvested as a salad leaf when it is small,  cut it when the leaf gets bigger. The best way to cut the spinach leaves is by using scissors. They can be cooked as a milder-tasting, tender leaf than the ones that are from mature plants. The leaves need to be cut as soon as they are ready, and they need to  be used promptly, so they will not spoil.

6. Harvesting

If I want my spinach to grow larger, then I will need to leave them ten to twelve weeks after sowing cut all the leaves off about one inch above the base, and discard all of the yellow ones if my spinach has them. After I harvested the spinach rows, if I keep them well fed and watered, I should get a smaller flush of leaves in two weeks, and they can be harvested again. After this it is best to discard the plants. Eventually, dig the plants up whole, and strip the leaves.

How To Grow Onions?

There are many different varieties of onions which includes white, red, and brown-skinned onions. Onions need a long time to be able to mature fully. I can get sizable bulbs by sowing seeds under cover early in the year. But, there is an  easier method and I can do it by raising plants from sets that are planted in spring or fall. The time to sow is spring, summer, fall, and later part of winter. It takes twenty-two-to twenty-four weeks to be ready to be harvest. The best place to grow onions is in beds. In a nine feet bed I will plant thirty-sixty plants.

1. Sowing Under Cover

If I want larger bulbs, I will need to sow seeds under cover from mid-winter to early spring. I will need to put seed compost in the seed tray, level it out, and water well. Make a hole 1/2 inch  deep and sow two seeds in each hole. I do not have to worry about keeping the seed with additional heat, but they need to be kept moist. Germination will require a week or two.

2. Sowing Outside

The seeds need to be sow in spring for summer crops, or in late summer for the Japanese varieties. Dig through the soil to get all of the weeds out, and rake it firm. Make a drill that is 3/4 inch deep. Water the area down good, and sow thinly along it. Cover, with water in, and once the seedlings have come up,  thin them out so they will be one every two - four inches apart.

3. Planting Sets

Onion sets are very small onion bulbs which are planted in either spring or fall. Each one bulk up in size to a bigger bulb. I plant the sets in the fall which are  the winter-hardy varieties they will mature to produce much larger bulbs than those planted in the spring. Put the sets into prepared soil, two to four inches apart, putting the tip of the set at soil level.

4. Routine Care

Onions need to be kept weeded regularly between each bulbs. I want good-sized bulbs I will need to keep the soil evenly moist. The fall sowings and plantings will benefit from an application of high-nitrogen fertilizer in late winter.

5. Harvesting

It is time to harvest onions when they reach full size, which is when the stems have collapsed and bent over. Harvest the onions on a dry day, by gently lifting them partly out of the soil using a pitch fork. Put them on the ground and leave them  for a week or so to dry out, or you can dry them indoors on racks of it if it it wet outside.

6. How To Dry To Bulbs

To dry my bulbs, I will need to lay the onions out on a wire rack to dry and always keep them off of the ground  so the air can circulate around the bulbs. Leave them in a light, dry place such as a greenhouse or a windowsill. When the outer skins rustle, I can either braid my bulbs and hang them up, or I can put them in net bags to store until I will need them.

How Is Green Onions Grown?

When I am deciding on what crops I am going to put in my garden, I think saving room for some green onions would be a great idea. They will give me a unique flavor to salads if I add green onions to my salad. The plants are very hardy, which will allow me to extend the season, where I can have both early and late sowing. They are very productive, Green onions comes in many different varieties, such as one that forms a small bulb or one that grows like a small leek, and there is Japanese varieties and red-stemmed pickling green onion.

Four Varieties of Green Onion

1. White Lisbon- this particular green onion is the most commonly grown one and they are good for growing in containers.
2. Guardsman- it has long well-blanched stems with dark green leaves. This particular one is a vigorous variety.
3. North Holland Blood Red- They have red stems that deepen in color with age.
4. Summer Isle- they crop late. The mild flavor makes it where anybody can eat them raw.

Sow Harvest Beds and Containers

Green onion  seeds are sown in spring, summer, and winter. They are harvest in early spring, all summer through middle of fall.

1.Getting Started

Green onions are grown from seed, by being sown directly in the soil or in large containers during spring, summer, and winter. I can also raised early and late crops under cover, or I can raised them in containers. greenhouse borders, or growing beds  I can plant 150 green onion plants in a nine feet rows. In a container, I can plant  forty plants.

2. Sowing Under Cover

Some of the green onion's varieties are hardy so I can have early- and late- season sowings under cover so this will make it where I can extend the harvesting period. In a twelve inch wide container, I will need to fill it with seed, compost, level the compost, water it well, and allow it to drain well. Make drills 1/2 inch  deep and four inches apart by using a trowel or some kind of pole like bamboo. Sow the seeds 1/2 inch apart along the base of the drill, cover it with more compost and lightly water it. When the seedlings come up, thin them out by leaving one strong plant every 3/4 inch. I will need to protect my crop from slug damage by putting a light sprinkling of pellets.

3. Sowing Outside


Since I am going to sow my green onions outside, I will need to prepare my soil, removing weeds and any crop debris, level it out and rake it real good. Make out drills 1/2 inch deep and four inches apart. Water the base of the drill real good is my next step. Then, I will sow the seeds 1/2 inch apart along the length of the drill. Cover the seeds with soil, and water them lightly.

4. Under Cover Crops

The green onions can be grown under cover in containers so I can have an early or late harvest of them. They need to be water real well and they also needs to have a diluted general purpose liquid fertilizer as they grow. The green onion's plants needs to be well-ventilated all the time to prevent fungal diseases such as botrytis.

5. Routine Care

The crops needs to be well-watered because in dry condition this will cause the plants to become bulbous. Green onions need to be hoe  all the time to keep the weeds out of them, because they are very sensitive to weed competition. In cold areas, they will need to be protect  by using either garden fabric or a cloche.

6. Harvesting

The green onions are ready for  harvesting when their stems are pencil-thick and I  will need to gently lift each plant out by using a hand fork, then I will need to refirm the soil so that all of the other plants that I am not harvesting now, will continue on growing. Green onions is a vegetable that does not store well, so L only harvested the amount that I need for right now.

How To Grow Turnips?

Turnips can be sow in the spring, summer, and last of the winter, and they are harvest late  spring, all summer,and fall, also the first of the winter. It takes six to ten weeks to harvest. Turnips are suitable to be planted in beds and containers. I will need to plant thirty plants in a nine feet roll and I will need to plant ten plants in each containers. Turnips can be grown for their leaves which is called turnip tops. The roots of turnips are sweet and tender. Turnips will provide several rounds of tasty leafy greens through the leaner months, which would make it real good.

Getting started

Turnips like to have a bunch of organic matter like well-rotted compost or manure in the soil, so this needs to be added to the soil the season before you plant the turnip. Turnips likes to have moist and well-drained soil.
Four Varieties of Turnips

1. Purple Top Milan- it should be pulled early when they are two inch wide. The roots of this variety has a sweet flavor.
2. Snowball- this type of radish who has all white roots which are sweet and tender. You will need to take these radishes out of the garden at six weeks.
3. Primera- the roots of this one has purple tops and they need to be pulled small. The flesh of these turnips is sweet and tender.

Atlantic- has purple and white roots and they can be harvested at a young age or I can leave them in the ground to mature.

Sowing under cover- Put trays with seed compost, level the soil, and water well. Let the soil drain real well and then make a 3/4 inch deep hole in each cell. Sow four seeds in each hole, then cover over, and water real well. This needs to be done over and over until I have the trays finish. Fill large containers  with compost, and make 3/4 inch deep drill. The seeds can be sowed thinly along the base, or I can sow a few seeds every four inches. Then I will need to thin the seedlings to one seedling per hole or cell or I can have  one every four inches; harden off, and then plant them out when they are large enough to handle it.

Sowing outside

I can sow my turnip seeds directly outside from mid-spring and late summer. This is the way that I sow my turnip's seeds all the time.. Before I can plant my turnip seed, I will need to work  up my soil and make sure I can  get all of the weeds out of my garden spot. After I do this, I will need to add high nitrogen granular fertilizer. Rake level to a fine tilt, then make drills 3/4 inch deep and put them nine to twelve  inches apart.

Routine care

During the hot, dry summer, there could be a problem with flea beetles, so I will need to cover the drills with a mesh that is insect-proof. Always keep all of the plants well watered and fed as they are growing. If my plants are in light soils and containers. they need to be fed occasionally with a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer so I can get bigger yields.

Weeding

Turnips plants  need to be kept weed-free since weeds will compete with the plants for light and nutrients, and weeds may have disease. To get weeds away from my plants, I will need to do this by hand, so I do not damage my plants, and I use a hoe to remove weeds between the rows.


Harvesting

I have fast-growing summer plants, I will need to harvest the turnips when they reach the size of a golf ball, because if I do not do this and let them grow longer, the turnips will have a woody texture. Harder winter types can be left to grow larger so they can be lifted in the fall when I need them.

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Herb Gardeners Preparing for Winter!

Perennial herbs will do real good if they do not have but a little new growth when the cold weather hits. You will need to stop fertilizing about one month before the first killing frost.

Toward the last of the summer, your annual herbs will start to die. Earlier in the year, you probably had planted some new herbs, but now they will be finishing up and you will now need to turn your attention to protection the soil over the winter.

By using cover crops and mulches will prevent your soil form washing away when it rains a lot and when the snow melts. a lot of people, think of cover crops as only going in large garden, but you can go ahead and put some cover crops in smaller spots.

If you have some patches of annuals that are grown in between perennials in your herb garden, you might want to plant a handful or two of oat seeds in with your herbs. After you pull up your annuals and compost them, scatter all of the oat seed on the soil, cover and tramp it down. After a week, you will start to see green shoots coming up. After the first frost comes, your oats will die. The dead leaves will form a thick mulch that will hold your soil in place over the winter and it will retard weeds growing in the springs.

If you do not live in a very warm climate, your perennials need to be mulched during the winter time. Mulching will keep in both the warmth and cold. The winter mulch will protect the plants roots  from real cold temperatures and will keep the roots from heaving out of the ground during the freezing and thawing cycles. Wait until the ground is frozen about an inch before you mulch. If you are not sure, wait until the nighttime temperatures where you live have been in the 20s for three days and the daytime temperatures will be 32 degrees or below. Shredded leaves, straw, and rotted hay are very good for winter mulches. Put about eight inches of the mulch over the whole root area of each plant. Put boards on your mulch if your garden is in a windy place.

When it gets spring, you will need to put the mulches back from he plants when you see new growth peeping through the mulch.

If your garden area gets a lot of wind you will need to protect your plants from the winds by putting up wind barriers which is made from burlap or wood stakes. If you get the wind both ways, you will need to set the stakes around each plant in a square or rectangular pattern, put burlap on the stakes. If the wind is only coming one way, you can use a two-sided burlap shield with a stake which will form a corner around the plant. Burlap will keep the winds drying effect on each of your plants.

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How to Plant a Container Garden?

The materials that you will need before you can plant your container garden are planting container, potting soil, pottery shards, plants, sheet moss or mulch and saucer or tray (if the pot is going to be on a wood surface.

Place pieces of pottery that are broken into the bottom of the container so that they will cover our your drainage hold. Because doing this will help keep the soil from washing out of the drainage hold.

Next, you will need to put the potting soil in your containers bottom. After this, you will need to take your plants and figure out where you are going to place them in your container.

Put the plants where you want them to be tin the container and surround them with potting mix, their root balls should be 1/2 to 1 inch below the top of the container. After this, you will need to finish by putting the potting soil in to fill up all the space. Press down gently in place to get rid of air pockets.

  Next, cover the soil with moss or mulch, whichever you choose to use and this helps with retaining moisture. Water thoroughly. Tank your container outdoors and place it in the shad for a few days, so to help with the plants being transplanting.

If you are going to place your container garden on a table, you will need to put a saucer or tray beneath it.

When you are interested in having a container garden, there should always have a big enough container so that there is plenty of room for all of your plant roots and you need to have good drainage so make sure you have plenty of drainage holes in your container.

How To Grow Chinese Cabbage?

Chinese cabbage is a crop for cool weather and is usually sown after midsummer, this is when the days are shorter-for a fall crop.

If you are using seeds, sow the seeds in post about six weeks before the last frost and plant them outdoors 12 -15 inches apart just before the last frost. The sow your plants directly into your garden about 90 days before the first fall frost date. Then thin them out to 12- 15 inches apart.

When you want to plant your Chinese cabbage, your soil needs to be well-dug loaded with plenty of organic matter.


Keep your eyes on your Chinese cabbage plants for pests such as flea beetles, slugs, and cabbage caterpillars. Keep your crop over with floating row covers by using traps or barriers to protect from slugs.

The soil has to always be moist. You will always need to shadow hoe to keep the weeds down and not damage the roots.
Putting organic materials down before the weather starts to warm up in late spring, this will retain some moisture, suppress weeds and keep the soil cool. The soil where you have your Chinese cabbage plants needs a high-nitrogen liquid fertilizer every other week.

Chinese cabbage can be used at any stage, from seedling to fully formed heads.  Young plants are best cooked lightly. The mature plants produce tight heads and can be used in salads or shredded and lightly cooked.
When you are gathering your Chinese cabbage plants, cut the whole plant at soil level, and remove the outer leaves until you reach clean leaves that are tightly wrapped around the pale tender heart, `which is the  part to eat.

Here are some different varieties of Chinese cabbage.

Blues- is a quick-growing, barrel-shape cultivator, good for spring or summer sowing (55 days)

Michichli- is an older cultivator with a cylindrical head up to 18 inches.

Orient Express- is an older quick-maturing barrel-shaped cultivator.

Two Seasons- a squat cultivator that is bolt-resistant can be sown spring or fall (65 days)

Wong Bok- an older squat type about 9 inches tall, is best for a fall or winter harvest.

How to Grow Beets?

Beets can be called a multipurpose vegetables at many stages of growth. If you have seedlings that are two to three inches tall, they are a good addition to your spring salad. Now, when the greens are six to eight inches tall you can steam up a mess of greens. Do not touch the beet part because it has just stared to develop. the beets taste good by themselves when they get about an inch and a half in diameter.

To get the best tasting beets they need to be able to grow fast, so they need to have rich soil and plenty of water. Beets have a long taproot and it is best to put them in a  deeper container, at least 10 to 12 inches deep, if you are going to use a container.

You will need to put the seeds1/2 inch deep in the soil. The seeds needs to be planted three inches apart in the container that they will live in. the first planting can be done a month before the last frost, along with small succession plantings every two weeks. Beets like to grow in cool weather, but they do germinate best in fairly warm soil. The way to preheat your container soil is done by covering it with black plastic or by using red plastic mulch.

Each beet seed is actually a cluster of seeds, so it does not matter how carefully you are in planting them, they will come up as a clump of plants, You can thin some of the plants to give more space to the other plants, but beets are used to grow in clustered conditions, and they do fine if you do not thin them, especially if you harvest some of the crop early for greens. If you thin some of the beets, do this with scissors, clipping the unwanted plants at soil level the roots of the beet plants will be intertwined, and if you decide to thin them out you will disturb the roots of the plants that you want to save.



To eat the baby beets and greens or just the greens, you will need to just pull the plants in clumps. After the greens are no longer tasty and the beets are mature, you will need to pull the beets and trim the tops to about an inch long.

To eat the baby beets and greens or just the greens you will need to just pull the plants in clumps. After the greens are no longer tasty and the beets are mature, you will need to pull the beets and trim the tops to about on inch long.
Beets are easy keepers and if they get a lot of water, they are unlikely to be bothered by pests or diseases.

Beets come in many different colors such as red, golden, white and deep purple. Some of the beets when sliced open, are striped, alternation with rings of pink and white or light and dark red.

Here is a video on how to grow your own beets.

How To Plant Rhubarb!

Rhubarb is a hardy vegetable that grows in the form of red or green stalks and rhubarb lasts up to 20 years.

Many people think of rhubarb as a very sour fruit, not a vegetable. It is also referred to as the "pie plant
' because that is the one most people prepare it by using plenty of sugar. Some people will add strawberries or other small fruits with the rhubarb to add an extra fruity flavor and increase the natural sweetness of the pie.

Rhubarb can survive temperatures that goes as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit. A winter temperature that drops down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit is necessary for the flower casing of the rhubarb plant to split and produce fresh growth. Rhubarb has to have a temperature of 75 degrees Fahrenheit to produce healthy vegetation. It is cultivated and grown in the northern states and also in regions that has long, cool spring season. Rhubarb grows big and it is hardy. It may grow to a size of tow feet wide and six feet tall.


If you want to grow rhubarb in your garden, you need to give it plenty of room to grow. If you let the rhubarb along, it will grow back abundantly every year for a couple of decades. Rhubarb is a perennial type of plant.

Rhubarb likes to have acidic soil with a PH between 5.5 and 6.5

One of the most important elements that you can do for the growth of your rhubarb is to have plenty of sunshine, especially is you have the plants with red stalks. A whole bunch of sunshine for your rhubarb plants will ensure a more vibrant color and stronger flavor. Rhubarb has to have a whole bunch of space to grow as it matures. If you plant them close to other perennial edible-producing plants, such as asparagus, this will suit them well.

The best way to plant rhubarb is to place a ball of roots that has been split from an established plant into the ground and cover it with soil, including the crown with one bud. If you only use the seeds of its flowers, the plant may take longer to because established and produce good fruit. You will have to transplant the entire rootstock.
These are the guidelines for planting rhubarb.

The hole for rhubarb needs to be about two feet in diameter and one foot deep. the disease between holes should be 1 to 2 feet apart, with rows being 3 - 4 feet apart.

You need to place the root ball and crown in the hold, then surround them with peat moss or composted manure.

Pack the soil firmly around the roots, not around the buds.

Water the crowns of the plants after you have been re-filled with soil.

If your garden does not drained well, you will need to plant your rhubarb in raised beds.

After you, have your rhubarb plants planted for five years, this is when you thin the plant growth by splitting the roosts and stems during the spring and transplanted them to a new bed.

All About Broccoli

Broccoli is easy to grow and broccoli produce a good crop for a long period of time. Broccoli is a cold-tolerant plant, so this makes broccoli a very good plant to slow because you can produce a succession of heads through three seasons. There are two different relatives of broccoli that you can try and they are broccoli ralve
and purple sprouting broccoli.

To raise broccoli from seeds you will need to raise the broccoli seeds indoors or you can buy transplants. Make sure that they are not root bound in the containers.

The soil needs to be rich and firm with plenty of organic material or a generous dose of plant-starters fertilizer before-planting. The plants needs to be space 12 inches from each other. Put the transplants in the foil very well so the lowest leaves on the plants can just be seen. always water the transplants very well right after you plant them. When you have broccoli planted in your garden, broccoli is a magnet to all the pests that attacks all of the cabbage family. to keep them away, you will need to cover the new transplants will well-secured floating row covers. You also will need to spray the plants regularly with an organic insecticide. After the main broccoli heads starts to form, you will them need to side-dress the crop with a seed-starter fertilizer to encourage more cropping, and keep the soil moist. Always mulch all of your plants to keep moisture and keep the weds down.

When broccoli reaches full size usually 3-4 inches across you will need to cut the main head and when all the buds are still tight and green.

Always wash your broccoli real good before you eat any of it. Broccoli heads should keep for a week unwashed in the refrigerator. It is also very easy to freeze if you would like to do that.